Kerala

We're in the South of India! Completely different from the North, and a very pleasant surprise. Different state, different people, different language, different climate, different everything!

Kerala has tremendous natural resources, from coconuts to rubber, cashews, pineapples, tea, coffee, spices, and a host of other things. These drive a booming economy, which supports solid education and local services. Because there is much manual labor, the Communist Party, about 20% of the population, wins elections, and drives local services. Because the British and missionaries were here more than a hundred years ago, about 25% of the population is Christian. So we saw labor rallies and nuns and Catholic churches and church schools, very different from the North. India recently proclaimed this state to be 100% literate, which is an extraordinary accomplishment, anywhere in the world.

We went first to Coconut Lagoon, a long drive from Cochin, that ended with a boat trip to the resort. It's a magical place, apparently one of Paul McCartney's favorite hotels. Small cottages with canals running through the resort, adjacent to a large lake. There are bridges to get everywhere in the resort. Food was very good, service was fabulous. We both had massages in the Ayurvedic Massage Center, and loved the pampering.

We took a 5-hour houseboat cruise on the backwaters, and felt like royalty.

We were served lunch on board, then watched as a tremendous downpour ensued. We were warm, dry, and safe, and had two fabulous hours to experience the monsoon in India. A really perfect day.

The big local sporting event is an annual Snake Boat race (the Chinese have Dragon Boats; this name is for tourists) with huge boats. The one we saw up close won the 2009 race, with a couple of helmsmen, 105 oarsmen, and associated others. Some boats have 130 oars!



We next went high in the mountains to the Windmere Plantation in Munnar. It's a working tea plantation, with hundreds of acres of tea plants that look like green carpets covering the mountains. Rustic, but very comfortable, good food, and tremendously eager service. We're thoroughly spoiled by Indian service, everybody tries so hard to please, all the time. It is clearly cultural, because it's everywhere, all the time.

Went to the highest mountain in the state, saw the endangered goats, toured a tea manufacturing plant, and enjoyed the local atmosphere. Relatively constant rain seemed only to make it more exotic.

Drove back to Cochin, 140 km, 4+ hours, there's a consistent pattern here. Virtually no “highways,” lots of small towns, no matter where we drive, we don't average more than 25 mph. Stayed in the Old City, in some British lord's house, now converted to a lovely small hotel. Portuguese, Dutch, British history all in this city that is trying to become a shipping hub for south India. Woke up Sunday morning to an organ playing hymns! 

There is a Presbyterian Church next door, further evidence of the Christian heritage (~25% of the population) in southern India. Had a boat tour of the harbor, and toured the waterfront and fish market, and the old Jewish quarter, went to an evening local dance performance. 

More than 90 degrees, almost 100% humidity, it sure feels like the middle of summer here. We're ready for a vacation in the Maldives!